Crafting History: Vinegaroon Leather Sheath Dyeing

Vinegaroon Leather Sheath Dyeing is about a traditional method for creating a rich, permanent black color on vegetable-tanned leather. In this tutorial, we’ll guide you through each step of dyeing a leather sheath with this historic dye. Learn about the history of vinegaroon and oak bark dyes in GreBec Knives Historic Leather Dyes. Greg explains the process to make this dye in Crafting History: How to Make Vinegaroon Dye for Leather.

Vinegaroon, a natural iron-acetate dye, chemically reacts with vegetable-tanned leather for a deep, lasting black that penetrates the fibers, ensuring durability. See our handcrafted sheaths dyed with vinegaroon by filtering ‘Historic Knives’ in our shop. Whether you’re crafting a historic sheath or exploring old-world leather techniques, this guide keeps the process simple and approachable.

Setting Up

For this Vinegaroon Leather Sheath Dyeing project, I used a 7–8 oz veg-tanned leather blank to make a 1850s Tiny Trade knife sheath. It doesn’t qualify as a ”historic’ reproduction as the design is made with a belt loop instead of a flap. But the process used is historically accurate. The leather was cut to shape, and the belt loop sanded for easier burnishing after dyeing. Unlike many natural dyes, Vinegaroon doesn’t require pre-soaking or a mordant.

Soaking the Leather

There are several ways to apply the dye, but I prefer a full soak. I poured the Vinegaroon solution (Greg mixed it in his shop) into a deep baking pan so the sheath could be completely submerged. I first tried a cookie sheet, but the shallow sides made spills likely—the higher sides of a baking pan work much better.

Once submerged, I let the leather sit for about five minutes to allow the iron-acetate solution to penetrate the fibers. After drying, the sheath turns black all the way through, not just on the surface. The chemical reaction makes the color far more permanent than a surface stain. I often add a scrap of leather to the solution, and cut it to confirm the dye has fully soaked in.

The Rinse

After removing the leather, I rinse it thoroughly in plain water. I pour the remaining solution back into its jar, clean the pan, and refill it halfway with fresh water. The sheath gets a good soak and a gentle rub—especially on the flesh side, where the solution tends to cling to the loose fibers. It may take several refreshed pans of water to ensure it’s fully rinsed.

Next, I let the leather dry completely, usually overnight. It can lie flat on paper towels with wax paper underneath, or hang to dry, making sure any clamp marks will be trimmed away.